Tóngjùnméi

Tóngjùnméi — “nsidze zolemekezeka za bronze” — ndi gireyidi yachitatu mu mndandanda wotchuka wa Jùnméi (骏眉), wobadwa mu 2005 m’mudzi wa Tongmu (桐木村, Tóngmù Cūn) m’chigawo cha National Nature Reserve cha Wuyishan. Ngati Jīn Jùnméi (金骏眉, “nsidze zagolide”) ndiye kukhathamira kwa masamba ang’onoang’ono opanda tsamba ndi ntchito ya ukadaulo wapamwamba, ndipo Yín Jùnméi (银骏眉, “nsidze zasiliva”) ndi mphukira imodzi ndi tsamba limodzi, Tóngjùnméi imagwiritsa ntchito zopangira zokhwima kwambiri — mphukira imodzi yokhala ndi masamba awiri kapena atatu — ndipo imadutsa mu kufufumitsa kwakuzama kwambiri. Zotsatira zake ndi woimira wodzaza kwambiri, wolemera komanso wopirira pa kuwaza mu mzere wa “nsidze”, wokhala ndi khalidwe lowala la uchi ndi zipatso komanso chiŵerengero chabwino cha mtengo/khalidwe. Mu malonda, Tóngjùnméi nthawi zambiri imagulitsidwa pansi pa mayina ena monga Xiǎo Chìgān (小赤甘, Xiǎo Chìgān — “kakang’ono kotsekemera kofiira”) ndi Dà Chìgān (大赤甘, Dà Chìgān — “chachikulu chotsekemera chofiira”), zomwe zimasonyeza muyezo wa kusonkha ndi kukhwima kwa tsamba.

1. Kugawa ndi Chiyambi:

• Mtundu: Tiyi wofiira waku China (红茶, hóngchá), wokwanira kufufumitsidwa. Ndi wa banja la Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng (正山小种, Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng) — “tiyi weniweni wamapiri wa masamba ang’onoang’ono”, koma umapangidwa pogwiritsa ntchito njira yopanda utsi (无烟, wúyān), mosiyana ndi Xiǎozhǒng wachikhalidwe wosuta.
• Gulu: Gireyidi ya mndandanda wa Jùnméi (骏眉): Jīn (金, “golide”) → Yín (银, “siliva”) → Tóng (铜, “bronze/mkuwa”). Tóngjùnméi ndi gireyidi yopezeka mosavuta kwambiri pamzerewu, komabe ili ndi khalidwe lake looneka bwino, losiyana ndi “abale” akulu.
• Chiyambi: China, chigawo cha Fujian (福建省, Fújiàn Shěng), mzinda wa Nanping (南平市, Nánpíng Shì), mzinda wa Wuyishan (武夷山市, Wǔyíshān Shì), tawuni ya Xingcun (星村镇, Xīngcūn Zhèn), mudzi wa Tongmu (桐木村). Tongmu ili mkati mwa National Nature Reserve ya Wuyishan (武夷山国家级自然保护区) — dera lomwe lili pa mndandanda wa UNESCO World Natural and Cultural Heritage. Awa ndi malo obadwira tiyi wonse wofiira wa banja la Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng ndi chiyambi cha mndandanda wa Jùnméi. Kwa Tóngjùnméi yeniyeni, zopangira ziyenera kuchokera ku “zhèngshān” (正山, “mapiri oyenera”) — dera la reserve la 565 km², kuphatikizapo mudzi wa Tongmu ndi madera ozungulira okwera (Má Sù 麻粟, Guà Dūn 挂墩, Jiāng Dūn 江墩, Miào Wān Píng 庙湾坪, ndi ena).
• Ma coordinates a geographical: pafupifupi 27°45′ N, 117°40′ E (mudzi wa Tongmu / phompho la Tongmuguan).

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo Lachikhalidwe:

• Mbiri: Tóngjùnméi idatuluka nthawi imodzi ndi Jīn Jùnméi — mu June 2005, pamene katswiri wa tiyi Liáng Jùndé (梁骏德, Liáng Jùndé) ndi wabizinesi Jiāng Yuánxūn (江元勋, Jiāng Yuánxūn) a kampani ya Zhèngshān Cháyè (正山茶业), malinga ndi malingaliro a okonda tiyi aku Beijing — mtolankhani Yán Yìfēng (阎翼峰) ndi wosonkhanitsa Zhāng Mèngjiāng (张孟江, “Yìshì Chárén” 佚士茶人) — anayesa kupanga tiyi wofiira kuchokera ku masamba ang’onoang’ono oyera a tchire la qízhǒng (奇种, qízhǒng — “mitundu yosowa/yachilendo”) yakutchire. Gulu loyamba — theka la jin (pafupifupi 250 g) — linali lodabwitsa: madzi agolide, fungo la uchi ndi maluwa, kutsekemera kodabwitsa. Katunduyu anatchulidwa “Jùnméi” (骏眉 — “nsidze zolemekezeka/zothamanga”): 骏 (jùn) — polemekeza katswiri Liáng Jùndé, komanso kutanthauza “mahatchi pakati pa tiyi” (kuchokera ku chithunzi cha kavalo wothamanga); 眉 (méi) — “nsidze” — chifukwa cha maonekedwe a tsamba lopindika, looneka ngati nsidze yopindika. Kuti tisiyanitse magiredi, panakhazikitsidwa “Jùnméi Lìng” (《骏眉令》, “Lamulo la Jùnméi”), lolembedwa ndi Zhāng Mèngjiāng, Yán Yìfēng ndi Mǎ Bǎoshān mu 2005: masamba ang’onoang’ono oyera, otoledwa pa Qīngmíng, — Jīn (golide); mphukira + tsamba limodzi pa Gǔyǔ — Yín (siliva); mphukira + masamba 2–3 pa Lìxià — Tóng (bronze). Mwachizoloŵezi, popeza liwu lakuti “mkuwa/bronze” silimamveka bwino kwa ogula, katswiri Liáng Jùndé anayamba kugulitsa Tóngjùnméi pansi pa dzina lamalonda la “Xiǎo Chìgān” ndi “Dà Chìgān” — “kakang’ono” ndi “chachikulu chotsekemera chofiira”. Mayinawa adakhazikika pamsika. Pofika 2009, Jùnméi idayambitsa kusintha kwakukulu mu makampani a tiyi aku China, kusandutsa Tongmu kuchoka ku mudzi woiwalika kukhala likulu la okonda tiyi wofiira ndikutsitsimutsa chidwi cha tiyi wofiira ku China konse.
• Dzina: 铜 (tóng) — “mkuwa, bronze” — likusonyeza gireyidi yachitatu ya mndandandawu (pambuyo pa golide ndi siliva), komanso mtundu wa mkuwa-bronze wa tsamba louma ndi tsamba lophikidwa. 骏 (jùn) — “kavalo wolemekezeka” (chithunzi cha kuthamanga ndi ulemerero) ndipo nthawi imodzi — akunena za dzina la wopanga Liáng Jùndé. 眉 (méi) — “nsidze” — fanizo la maonekedwe a tsamba la tiyi lopindidwa: lochepa, lopindika, ndi “ubweya” wochepa.
• Tanthauzo la chikhalidwe: Mndandanda wa Jùnméi wakhala chizindikiro cha “kubadwanso kwa tiyi wofiira” ku China. Mpaka 2005, tiyi wofiira mkati mwa dziko anali ndi zosowa zochepa (zokolola zambiri zinkatumizidwa kunja); kubwera kwa Jùnméi kunasintha kwambiri zinthu — tiyi wofiira anakhala wotchuka, wokhumbidwa, ndi wolemekezeka. Tóngjùnméi, monga woimira wopezeka kwambiri pamzerewu, inachita mbali yaikulu mu demokalase ya chizoloŵezi chimenechi: inalola gulu lalikulu la okonda tiyi kukhala ndi “kalembedwe ka Tongmu” popanda kufunika kulipira ndalama zambiri za Jīn Jùnméi. Mudzi wa Tongmu — “kwawo kwa tiyi wonse wofiira padziko lapansi” (世界红茶的发源地) — chifukwa cha Jùnméi unabweranso ndi moyo: alimi a tiyi anachoka pa njinga zamoto kupita ku magalimoto, nyumba za nsungwi zinasinthidwa ndi nyumba zamiyala.

3. Kufotokozera Kwazomera ndi Zipangizo:

• Mtundu / Cultivar: Mitundu ya tchire yakutchire — qízhǒng (奇种, qízhǒng — “mitundu yachilendo”), yotchedwanso càichá (菜茶, càichá — “tiyi wa munda”): tchire la masamba ang’onoang’ono Camellia sinensis var. sinensis, yomwe imamera mwachilengedwe m’nkhalango ya reserve pakati pa nsungwi, m’mphepete mwa mitsinje ya m’mapiri, ndi pamiyala. Tchire l ambiri liri ndi moss wokhuthala, umene umasonyeza zaka makumi kapena mazana. Qízhǒng ndi gulu la majini losiyanasiyana, lomwe silinadutsepo kusankhidwa; tchire lililonse ndi lapadera, zomwe zimabweretsa zovuta zowonjezera mu fungo la tiyi womaliza.
• Kusonkha: Malinga ndi “Jùnméi Lìng”, Tóngjùnméi imasonkhanitsidwa pafupi ndi Lìxià (立夏, kumayambiriro kwa May — kuyamba kwa chilimwe). Mwachizoloŵezi, kusonkha kumachitika kuyambira kumapeto kwa April mpaka kumayambiriro kwa June, pambuyo pa kusonkha kwakukulu kwa Jīn ndi Yín Jùnméi. Nthawi yochedwa yosonkha imatanthauza kuti masamba amatha kufutukuka ndikupeza ma polyphenols ndi zonunkhira zambiri.
• Muyezo wa kusonkha: Mphukira imodzi + masamba 2–3 achichepere. Tsamba liyenera kukhala latsopano, lofewa (嫩, nèn), lopanda kuwonongeka kwamakina. Kusonkha kumachitika m’maola a m’mawa (7:00–10:00), nyengo yowuma, pogwiritsa ntchito njira ya “kukweza” (提手采, tíshǒu cǎi) — popanda kukhotetsa kapena kufinya mphukira.
• Zofunikira pa zopangira: Tsamba losonkhedwa kumene limatengedwa mosachedwa kupita ku fakitaleyo; kufinya, kutentha kwambiri, ndi kufiira msanga sikovomerezeka. Tsamba la mvula siligwiritsidwa ntchito. Mphukira zokhala ndi masamba obiriwira otumbululuka kapena achikasu pang’ono ndizabwino; zobiriwira zokongola zimaonedwa ngati zosakhala bwino.

4. Terroir ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

• Kutalika kwa malo: 800–1,500 m; minda yayikulu ya tiyi ili pa kutalika kwapakati pafupifupi 1,200 m. Zopangira zamtengo wapatali kwambiri zimachokera ku madera a “zhèngshān” (正山) mkati mwa reserve.
• Nyengo: Nyengo ya m’mapiri ya subtropical: kutentha kwapachaka 11–18 °C; mvula yapachaka — pafupifupi 2,000 mm; chinyezi chapachaka — 80%; masiku a chifu — mpaka 120 pachaka. Kuwala kochepa kwa dzuwa ndi chinyezi chochuluka zimathandizira kusonkhanitsa ma amino acid ndi mafuta ofunika mu tsamba.
• Nthaka: Acidi (pH 4.5–5.0), kuya kwa 30–90 cm, popangidwa ndi quartzite ndi granite zowonongeka. Zili ndi zinthu zambiri za organic chifukwa cha kuwonongeka kwa masamba a nsungwi ndi zinyalala za m’nkhalango.
• Zachilengedwe: Nkhalango — 96.3%. Tongmu ndi mtima wa imodzi mwa nkhalango za subtropical zosungidwa bwino kwambiri ku East Asia. Tchire la tiyi limamera pakati pa mitengo, minda ya nsungwi ndi fern; palibe minda yapadera — tiyi amatolera ku tchire “yakutchire”, yobalalika m’mapiri. Tizirombo ndi feteleza za mchere sizigwiritsidwa ntchito; chilengedwe cha reserve chimapereka chitetezo chachilengedwe ku tizirombo. Kufikira kuderali ndi koletsedwa kwambiri: Tongmu imakhalabe malo otsekedwa kwa nzika zakunja — cholowa cha zaka za m’ma 1900, pamene Robert Fortune, “wosaka zomera” wa ku Britain, anaba mobisa mbewu ndi zinsinsi za kupanga tiyi wofiira kuchokera kuno.

5. Tekinoloje Yopanga:

Tóngjùnméi imapangidwa pogwiritsa ntchito njira yopanda utsi ya mndandanda wa Jùnméi, yozikidwa pa mwambo wa Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng, koma popanda siteji yachikale yosuta pa nkhuni za paini. Kusiyana kwakukulu ndi Jīn Jùnméi ndiko kufufumitsa kwakuzama kwambiri (mpaka 70–80% kapena kuposa pamenepo) ndi kugwira ntchito ndi tsamba lokhwima kwambiri.

• Kusonkha (采摘 — cǎizhāi): Mphukira 1 + masamba 2–3, kusonkha pamanja m’maola a m’mawa.
• Kufota (萎凋 — wěidiāo): Kuphatikizika: kuwala kwa dzuwa (日光萎凋, rìguāng wěidiāo) — kuyala pansanja za nsungwi mosanjikiza wochepa (osaposa 2 cm), kutembenuzidwa mphindi 10–20 mpaka kufewa ndi kutaya bwino; kenako — kufotanso m’nyumba (室内萎凋, shìnèi wěidiāo) ndi mpweya wachinyezi wofunda. “Jùnméi Lìng” imafotokoza izi ngati “mthunzi wa theka, kuwala kwa theka, kuyanika masamba” (半阴半阳晾芽青).
• Kukulunga (揉捻 — róuniǎn): Malinga ndi formula “kukankha mopepuka, kukoka mwamphamvu” (轻推重拉): kuyamba mopepuka, kenako mwamphamvu kuti apange kukulunga kolemba ndikutulutsa timadzi. Tsamba lokulungidwa limapangidwa kukhala mpira (坨, tuó).
• Kufufumitsa (发酵 — fājiào): Mpira wa tsamba lokulungidwa umakutidwa ndi nsalu yonyowa (坨盖湿布) ndikusungidwa pa kutentha kwa chipinda. “Jùnméi Lìng” imalamula kufufumitsa “pa magawo asanu ndi awiri mwa khumi” (酵七成), koma kwa Tóngjùnméi, ndi zopangira zake zokhwima kwambiri, mulingo wa kufufumitsa ndiwapamwamba kwambiri m’mndandandawu: tsamba limakhala lofiira kwambiri ngati mkuwa, fungo lake limakhala lolemera, ndi mawu a uchi ndi zipatso.
• Kuyanika (烘焙 — hōngbèi): Pang’onopang’ono, popanda utsi, kutentha kochepa (低温无烟慢烘焙). Kusowa kwa utsi ndi kusiyana kwakukulu ndi Xiǎozhǒng wachikale. Kuyanika pang’onopang’ono pa kutentha kosakwera kumateteza mankhwala osavuta onunkhira ndikutulutsa kutsekemera kwa “uchi” kwadake. Lamulo lokhwima: “osapanga tsamba la usiku” (切记莫做隔夜青) — ntchito yonse kuyambira kusonkha mpaka kuyanika imamalizidwa tsiku limodzi.
• Kusanja (分级 — fēnjí): Kuchotsa zitsulo zolimba, kulinganiza magawo.

6. Makhalidwe a Kununkhira ndi Kulawa:

• Maonekedwe a tsamba louma: Kukulunga ndi kwakukulu komanso kotayirira kuposa kwa Jīn ndi Yín Jùnméi; tsamba ndi lalikulu, ndikuonekera kutambasuka kwa nsanjayo. Mtundu — “theka lachikaso, magawo asanu ndi anayi mwa khumi akuda” (半黄九半黑): mawonekedwe onse ndi akuda, ndi mawanga ang’onoang’ono agolide-bronze ochokera ku ubweya wa masamba ang’onoang’ono. Ma tips ndi ochepa kwambiri kuposa ma giredi akulu.
• Fungo la tsamba louma: Kutsekemera kwakukulu kwa uchi ndi maluwa ndi zipatso (花蜜香, huāmì xiāng). Fungo ndi “lolemera” komanso “lofunda” kuposa la Jīn Jùnméi, ndi mawu a mbatata yophikidwa, zipatso zouma, ndi kamvekedwe kakang’ono ka caramel.
• Fungo la madzi: Magawo angapo: pamasamba oyamba — maluwa owala (orchid, rose), kenako — zipatso (pichesi, apurikoti), pomaliza — uchi weniweni ndi makeke otsekemera. Fungo limakhala lolimba.
• Kukoma: Wodzaza (醇厚, chúnhòu), wolemera, ndi kutsekemera kowoneka bwino kwa uchi komanso “kubwerera kotsekemera” kwa nthawi yaitali (回甘, huígān). Thupi la madzi ndi lolimba komanso “lolemera” kuposa la Jīn Jùnméi. Kuwawa ndi kumangirira kulibe ngati aphasa moyenera. Kukoma kotsalira — kwa nthawi yaitali, kokuta, ndikumva kosangalatsa kwa “kumamatira” kummero (挂喉感, guàhóu gǎn).
• Mtundu wa madzi: Amber-golide, owonekera, ndi mawu ofunda a uchi (汤色澄黄). Wolemera kwambiri mumtundu kuposa madzi agolide owonekera a Jīn Jùnméi.
• Pansi pa tiyi (tsamba lophikidwa): Mkuwa wofiira ndi mawonekedwe a bronze, masamba otseguka bwino; titha kuona mphukira zonse za “mphukira + masamba 2–3”. Kapangidwe kake ndi kofewa, kotanuka.

7. Kapangidwe ka Mankhwala:

• Ma Polyphenols: Mlingo wake ndi wapamwamba kuposa wa Jīn Jùnméi, chifukwa cha zopangira zokhwima kwambiri. Paulendo wa kufufumitsa kwakuzama, gawo lalikulu la ma catechins limasandulika kukhala theaflavins (TF) ndi thearubigins (TR), zomwe zimapanga mtundu wolemera, “thupi” lolimba, ndi kapangidwe kake kofewa ka madzi.
• Ma Amino Acids: L-theanine — pamlingo wochepa (wotsika kuposa wa Jīn Jùnméi wa masamba ang’onoang’ono okha, koma wokwanira kupereka kufewa ndi kutsekemera). Kukula kwa m’mapiri ndi kusungidwa ndi nsungwi kumathandizira mlingo wabwino wa theanine ngakhale m’masamba okhwima kwambiri.
• Ma Alkaloids: Caffeine (2.5–4% ya kulemera kouma — pang’ono kuposa giredi za masamba ang’onoang’ono okha, chifukwa cha kupezeka kwa masamba okhwima), theobromine, theophylline.
• Mavitamini: Vitamin C (yomwe imasungidwa pang’ono), mavitamini a gulu B, β-carotene.
• Maminerali: Potaziyamu, manganese, zinc, fluoride, iron — mtundu wamba wa zopangira zaku Wuyishan zokwera pa nthaka ya quartzite.
• Mafuta Ofunika ndi Zinthu Zosasintha: Linalool, geraniol, β-ionone, nonanal — zimapanga fungo lodziwika bwino la maluwa ndi uchi. Tsamba lokhwima kwambiri limabweretsa mawu owonjezera “ofunda” (maltol, furfural) chifukwa cha reaction ya Maillard poyanika.

8. Ubwino wa Zaumoyo:

• Imalimbitsa pang’onopang’ono ndikukulitsa chidwi chifukwa cha mgwirizano wa caffeine ndi L-theanine; zotsatira zolimbitsa — zofanana, popanda msanga kwambiri.
• Imakhala ndi ntchito ya antioxidant: theaflavins ndi ma catechins otsala amachotsa ma free radicals ndikuthandizira chitetezo cha ma cell.
• Imatenthetsa ndikuthandizira chakudya chabwino — tiyi wofiira amakhudza mwamphamvu komanso mwachifundo m’mimba (暖胃, nuǎn wèi); ndi yabwino kwambiri kumwa pambuyo pa chakudya.
• Imathandizira thanzi la mtima ndi mitsempha: ma polyphenols a tiyi wofiira amathandizira kukhazikika kwa mitsempha ndipo angathandize kukhazikitsa kuthamanga kwa magazi.
• Ili ndi fluoride ndi ma polyphenols, omwe ndi abwino ku thanzi la m’kamwa: kulimbikitsa enamel ndi kutsekereza mabakiteriya oyambitsa dzino.
• Imakhala ndi ntchito yofatsa yokodza; imathandizira kutulutsa poizoni.
• Imathandiza kuthetsa kutopa ndi kuchira pambuyo pa ntchito yamaganizo ndi yakuthupi.
• Fungo lolemera la uchi ndi L-theanine zimathandizira kupumula ndi kuchepetsa nkhawa.

9. Kuwaza:

• Kutentha kwa madzi: 90–100 °C. Mosiyana ndi Jīn Jùnméi yosakhwima, Tóngjùnméi ndi tsamba lake lokhwima kwambiri imatuluka bwino pa kutentha pafupifupi ndi kuwira; izi zimalola kutulutsa bwino “thupi” lolimba ndi kuzama kwa uchi. Zomwe zimachitika kawirikawiri pakati pa akatswiri a Tongmu ndiko kuwaza ndi madzi otentha kwambiri.
• Kuchuluka kwa tiyi: 3–5 g pa 100–120 ml (gongfu); 3–4 g pa 200–300 ml (kuthira mu kapu kapena kalembedwe ka ku Ulaya).
• Zombo: Gaiwan woyera wa porcelain (盖碗) 100–120 ml — amalola kuyamikira fungo ndi mtundu; teapot ya porcelain kapena galasi. Kumwa tsiku ndi tsiku, kapu wamba yokhala ndi chivindikiro ingagwire ntchito.
• Njira:
  1. Tenthetsani gaiwan ndi madzi otentha, tsanulani.
  2. Ikani tiyi, kuphimba ndi chivindikiro kwa masekondi 3–5 — fungani fungo louma la uchi.
  3. Kutsuka: kuthira mwachangu kwa masekondi 1–2, tsanulani (mwa kufuna — mutha kudumpha).
  4. Kuthira koyamba: masekondi 5–10.
  5. Kuthira kotsatira: onjezani nthawi ndi masekondi 5; kuyambira pa 6–7, onjezani kwambiri (mpaka masekondi 15–20).
  6. Chiwerengero cha kuthira: 8–12 kapena kuposa — Tóngjùnméi ndi yopirira kwambiri pakuwaza pakati pa magiredi onse a Jùnméi chifukwa cha tsamba lolimba, lokhwima kwambiri. Makamaka pa kuthira mochedwa, kutsekemera kwake kwakukulu kwa uchi kumatuluka.

10. Kusunga:

Kusunga m’chidebe chosagwira mpweya chosawonekera (chidebe cha malata kapena cha ceramic, paketi ya vacuum yokhala ndi zokutira za foil), malo owuma, ozizira pa kutentha mpaka 22–25 °C, kutali ndi kuwala kwadzuwa ndi fungo lachilendo. Nthawi yabwino yogwiritsira ntchito ndi miyezi 18–24. Tóngjùnméi ndi yokhazikika posunga; m’malo osamala, imatha kukalamba kwa zaka 2–3, pamene fungo limafewa, ndipo kukoma kumakhala kozungulira. Kusunga m’firiji sikofunikira.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonyenga:

Tóngjùnméi ndi giredi yopezeka mosavuta kwambiri m’mndandanda wa Jùnméi. Ngati mtengo wa kilogalamu ya Jīn Jùnméi yeniyeni yochokera ku Tongmu umafika masauzande a yuan, Tóngjùnméi (Xiǎo Chìgān / Dà Chìgān) imawononga kambirimbiri kuchepera — kuchokera ku mazana angapo mpaka masauzande angapo a yuan pa 500 g, kutengera dera lenileni losonkhera ndi katswiri. Komabe, Tóngjùnméi imanyengedwanso: chifukwa cha kutchuka kwa “kalembedwe ka Tongmu”, msika wadzaza ndi zotsanzira kuchokera kumadera ena a Fujian (Zhenghe, Tanyang, Jian’ou) ngakhalenso zigawo zoyandikana.

• Momwe mungapewere zonyenga:
  1. Gulani kuchokera kwa opanga a m’mudzi wa Tongmu kapena kwa ogulitsa odalirika omwe ali ndi njira yowonekera ya katundu; chabwino — ndi kutchulidwa kwa dzina la katswiri wopanga (实名制, shímíng zhì).
  2. Maonekedwe: Tóngjùnméi yeniyeni — “theka lachikaso, theka lakuda” (osati yakuda yofanana kapena yagolide yowala); kukulunga — kwachilengedwe, kosakhala kolingana bwino; tsamba — lalikulu pang’ono (si giredi ya masamba ang’onoang’ono okha).
  3. Madzi: amber-golide, owonekera, ndi fungo la uchi ndi kukoma kotsekemera popanda kuwawa kapena kumangirira. Madzi akuda, ofiira akuda kapena kuwawa koonekera ndi zizindikiro za kusinthidwa.
  4. Kupirira: Tóngjùnméi yeniyeni ya ku Tongmu imapirira kuponyedwa 8–12, kukhalabe ndi kukoma ndi fungo; zotsanzira zotsika mtengo “zimatha” pambuyo pa 3–4.
  5. Mtengo wotsika wokayikitsa wa tiyi wolembedwa kuti “桐木关” / “正山” — pafupifupi ndi wonyenga.

12. Zochititsa Chidwi:

• Dzina lakuti “Tóngjùnméi” siligwiritsidwa ntchito kwenikweni m’mashelufu a ogulitsa. Katswiri Liáng Jùndé ndiye woyamba kuganiza zosintha dzina: “Patsogolo pake pali golide ndi siliva; mkuwa sungagulitsidwenso pamtengo wabwino.” Choncho panabwera mayina amalonda a “Xiǎo Chìgān” (小赤甘 — kuchokera ku mphukira + masamba 2) ndi “Dà Chìgān” (大赤甘 — kuchokera ku mphukira + masamba 3 okhwima kwambiri). Mayinawa anakhala malonda odziimira okha.
• Malinga ndi “Jùnméi Lìng”, Jùnméi ingapangidwenso kukhala “Jùnméi bīng” (骏眉冰 — ayezi/ozizira) ndi “Jùnméi bǐng” (骏眉饼 — woponderezedwa kukhala mkate). Zosinthazi zimapezeka kawirikawiri ndipo zimaonedwa ngati za okhometsa.
• Pa 500 g ya Jīn Jùnméi, pamafunika masamba ang’onoang’ono 50,000–58,000; pa 500 g ya Tóngjùnméi — ochepa kwambiri (aliyense amalemera kwambiri). Ichi ndi chifukwa chachikulu cha kusiyana kwa mitengo.
• Katswiri wopanga Liáng Jùndé ndi wamisiri wa tiyi wobadwa nawo, yemwe anayamba kugwira ntchito ndi tiyi ali ndi zaka 8: agogo ake aakazi, mayi wokhala ndi mapazi omangidwa, sanathe kuponda tiyi ndi mapazi (njira yachikhalidwe yokulungira ku Tongmu) ndipo anaphunzitsa mdzukulu wawo. Mu 2008, Liáng anachoka ku kampani ya “Zhèngshān Cháyè” ndipo anayambitsa fakitala yakeyake “Jùndé Cháchǎng” (骏德茶厂), yomwe inakhala imodzi mwa opanga odziwika a mndandanda wa Jùnméi.
• Anthu a ku Tongmu amalankhula chinenero cha Jiangxi (osati Chifujian Minnan), ndipo mabanja ambiri amachokera ku chigawo cha Jiangxi: katswiri Liáng Jùndé, malinga ndi mbiri ya banja lake, ndi mbadwa ya osamukira kuchokera ku Guixi (贵溪, boma lomwe lili m’munsi mwa phiri la Longhushan) — makolo ake anasamukira ku Tongmu zaka zoposa 500 zapitazo.

13. Kuyerekeza ndi tiyi wina wofiira wa mndandanda wa Jùnméi ndi Xiǎozhǒng:

• Jīn Jùnméi (金骏眉, Jīn Jùnméi): Giredi yapamwamba — masamba ang’onoang’ono oyera okha, otoledwa pa Qīngmíng. Madzi — golide wowonekera, mtundu wa “amber wofunda”; fungo — losakhwima kwambiri, lamaluwa ndi uchi ndi mawu a lánhuā (orchid); kukoma — silky, kosakhwima, ndi mawu otsindika pa kutsekemera ndi “mpweya”. Poyerekeza ndi iyi, Tóngjùnméi ndi “yapadziko lapansi”, yolemera, yodzaza, ndi “thupi” loonekera komanso kupirira kwakukulu pakuwaza.
• Yín Jùnméi (银骏眉, Yín Jùnméi): Giredi yapakati — mphukira 1 + tsamba 1, kusonkha pa Gǔyǔ. Khalidwe lapakati pakati pa mpweya wa Jīn ndi kudzaza kwa Tóng: fungo — lamaluwa ndi zipatso, kukoma — kotsekemera ndi kapangidwe kakang’ono, thupi — lapakati.
• Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng — wosuta wachikhalidwe (正山小种 传统烟熏): Kalembedwe kakale ndi kusuta pa nkhuni za paini (松烟, sōngyān). Fungo — utsi, longan, zipatso zouma; kukoma — kolemera, “utsi wotsekemera”. Tóngjùnméi ilibe mawu autsi; khalidwe lake ndi loyera la uchi ndi maluwa.
• Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng — wopanda utsi (正山小种 无烟): Mtundu wamakono wa Xiǎozhǒng wopanda kusuta. Pafupi kwambiri ndi Tóngjùnméi pa kalembedwe, koma muyezo wa kusonkha kwa Xiǎozhǒng ndi wosiyana (kuchokera ku mphukira + masamba 1–2 mpaka ku zopangira zokhwima kwambiri); pamene Tóngjùnméi imaikidwa ngati gawo la mndandanda wapamwamba wokhala ndi kayendetsedwe kokhwima ka khalidwe ndi ukadaulo.
• Lǎocóng Hóng Chá (老枞红茶, Lǎocóng Hóngchá): Tiyi wofiira kuchokera ku tchire yakale ya Tongmu, yokutidwa ndi moss. Ili ndi fungo lapadera la “cóngwèi” (枞味) — kukoma kwa “moss” ndi kuwawa pang’ono ndi kutsitsimuka kwa “nyanja”. Tóngjùnméi yopangidwa kuchokera ku lǎocóng imaphatikiza makhalidwe onsewa, koma pamsika magulu oterewa amasiyanitsidwa m’gulu lapadera.

Pomaliza:

Tóngjùnméi — “ngwazi ya anthu” ya mndandanda wa Jùnméi: imanyamula DNA yomweyo ya terroir ya Tongmu — tchire yakutchire ya qízhǒng, chifu cha m’mapiri, minda ya nsungwi, nthaka za quartzite — koma imawulula m’njira yodzaza, yolemera, komanso yofikira aliyense. Kuzama kwake kwa uchi, kutentha kwa bronze, ndi kupirira kochititsa chidwi kumapangitsa kuti ikhale tiyi wabwino watsiku ndi tsiku kwa iwo amene amayamikira tiyi weniweni wofiira wa Wuyishan popanda kulipira zochulukirapo za giredi ya “golide”. Yesani kupaka Tóngjùnméi ndi madzi otentha kwambiri mu gaiwan yoyera ya porcelain ndikuwona mmene fungo limasinthira kuchokera ku maluwa kupita ku zipatso ndi kupitilira — ku uchi weniweni, wokuta. Ndipo pa kuthira kwa chisanu ndi chitatu kapena khumi, Tóngjùnméi imadzitulutsa mokwanira — ndipo ndi panthawi imeneyi pamene zimamveka chifukwa chake “bronze” yochokera ku Tongmu imawononga ndalama zambiri kuposa “golide” yochokera kumadera ena ambiri.